The Azores islands are a true hidden gem. Honestly, I had never heard of the Azores until a few years ago, and now I genuinely can’t stop telling people about them. I recently took a sibling trip to São Miguel, and it exceeded every expectation.

It is breathtakingly beautiful, full of untouched nature, and small enough that you can genuinely explore a huge amount in just five days. This is roughly the same São Miguel Azores itinerary we followed on our trip, with a few bonus ideas and tips that I wish I knew before we travelled. 

The Azores is an archipelago of nine volcanic islands scattered out in the Atlantic Ocean. People often describe them as being “off the coast of Portugal,” but that is a little misleading.

They actually sit about 1,400 kilometres west of mainland Portugal, which is roughly a 2.5-hour flight from Lisbon. They are also around 950 kilometres northwest of Madeira and about 1,350 kilometres northwest of the Canary Islands. In other words, they are really far out there. 

São Miguel is the largest and most populated island in the Azores archipelago with about 140,000 people. Portuguese explorers first discovered the uninhabited island in the mid 1500s.

Just a few years after that first settlement, a volcanic eruption near Sete Cidades dramatically reshaped the entire western part of the island. Even after the eruption, more settlers kept coming to São Miguel, Portuguese, French, and Flemish, all drawn by the island’s fertile soil and mild year round climate.

The island grew into a busy commercial hub, which pulled it into several conflicts over the centuries. Sugar and natural red dye were the main exports at first.  By the mid 1800s, tea, pineapple, and tobacco had taken over as the primary exports and the economy really flourished.

To this day, São Miguel is Europe’s only commercial tea producer and the only place in the world where pineapples are grown in greenhouses. In the 1970s, São Miguel became an autonomous region of Portugal, meaning it has its own regional government while still remaining part of the country.

If you want to learn more about the history here is a great tour of Ponta Delgada. 

Although I have not visited Madeira yet, we genuinely went back and forth between which island to visit while planning this trip. They are similar in a lot of ways, and the decision was not straightforward. What ultimately tipped us toward São Miguel was the hiking variety and the promise of a quieter, less touristy experience.

Around one million people visit São Miguel each year, compared to roughly 2.5 million in Madeira. On a tiny island, you can really feel that difference. We were also working with a tighter budget, and São Miguel came out as the more affordable option.

I would love to visit Madeira one day to do a proper comparison, but I am very happy we went with São Miguel.

Ideally, I would recommend at least five days to comfortably see the main highlights. If you prefer a slower pace and want to really let the island sink in, aim for seven or eight days. The weather here is famously unpredictable, so having a few extra days is a great buffer.

A foggy morning at a viewpoint is far less frustrating when you know you have another chance later in the week. If you are planning to visit multiple Azores islands. I would suggest 3 days would on São Miguel should be the minimum.

As someone who has never visited an island as small as São Miguel, the weather was absolutely fascinating to me. Not only can the weather completely change in under twenty minutes, one side of the island can have thick fog and rain while the other side is in full sunshine. It genuinely feels like two different days happening at once.

The climate stays mild year-round, ranging from around 14°C (57°F) in winter up to 24°C (75°F) in summer. That said, expect some rain and fog no matter when you visit, especially at higher altitude spots like Sete Cidades and Lagoa do Fogo.

If the middle of the island is cloudy, head down to the coast. It’s almost always sunnier there.

One tool that genuinely saved our trip was the SpotAzores website. They also have an app you can download. It shows live camera feeds from different parts of the island. We checked it every single morning before deciding on our plans for the day. I can’t recommend it enough.

The good news is that São Miguel is a great travel choice at almost any time of year. Here is a quick breakdown to help you decide:

Summer (July–September) is peak season, and for good reason. It is the warmest and driest time to visit, and your best window for swimming.

If you want to see the island’s famous hydrangeas in full bloom, late July and August is your sweet spot. The island turns into a sea of blue and purple, and it is absolutely magical.

Spring (April–June) and Autumn (October–November) are both great times to go, and honestly my personal recommendation. Temperatures are comfortable, crowds are noticeably thinner, and spring period lines up with peak whale migration, making it the best time for whale watching in the Azores.

We visited in May and loved every minute of it. We had a few rain showers, but by keeping an eye on the SpotAzores cameras each morning, we stayed mostly dry.

It was a little too cool for swimming most days, but we managed two warm enough afternoons to actually get in the water.

Winter (December–March) brings cooler temperatures, more rain, and stronger winds. Swimming is off the table, and some smaller restaurants and guesthouses may shut entirely for the season.

However, if you love dramatic landscapes and do not mind the moody weather, there is something genuinely beautiful about the island in winter too. You will almost have the island entirely to yourself.

We decided to stay in the same hotel for our entire trip, which is usually my preference anyway. On an island this small, you are never too far from anywhere.

If I had to give a recommendation, I would suggest staying somewhere central if you are basing yourself in one spot. If you would rather split your time between two places, aim for one hotel on the west side and one on the north side. 

Caloura Hotel: Where We Stayed

I will admit I might be a little biased here, but honestly the Caloura Hotel is stunning. Every room comes with an ocean view and a private balcony, and the whole property sits right on the waterfront. There is a private rock beach and there are several chairs around the grounds to enjoy the endless views.

The staff were genuinely warm and welcoming, and the breakfast and bar food were both far better than we expected. Eating breakfast each morning with the Atlantic stretched out in front of us is something I will dream about for a long time.

The hotel is located in the middle of the island, which meant we were never more than about 30 minutes from anywhere. For the price, the rooms, location, and service all went well above what I anticipated. See prices and availability here.

Hotel Recommendations on the West Side

Moinho das Feteiras

You could stay in a windmill! Moinho das Feteiras is a charming rural retreat on the cliffs of São Miguel, offering a unique stay in a converted windmill with a 360 sea view. The windmill has a swimming pool, sun terrace and a garden. Check pricing and availability here. 

SENSI Azores Nature and SPA

Stay in this restored 19th century Azorean farm transformed into a stunning boutique hotel spa. A few of the rooms have private plunge pools. The spa features an outdoor pool, heated indoor pool, Turkish bath, and sauna, and the restaurant focuses on locally sourced Azorean ingredients. Check Pricing and Availability here. 

Hotel Recommendations on the North Side

Hotel Verde Mar & SPA

This 5 star hotel with dramatic ocean views has an infinity outdoor pool, a wellness centre with indoor pool, jacuzzi, Turkish bath and sauna, and a fine dining restaurant with panoramic sea views. Check Pricing and Availability here. 

Hotel Recommendations in the Ponta Delgada

The Farm – Azores Boutique House

Located in Ponta Delgada only a short walk from Nossa Senhora da Esperanca, this small, boutique hotel has everything you want in a hotel, including a swimming pool and sun terrace. Check pricing and availability here. 

Alto do Forte

This hotel has rooms with a fully equipped kitchen, which is perfect for longer stays. Enjoy either sea or mountain views, and spa facilities such as a pool, sauna, hot tub and Turkish spa. It is located only a 15 minute walk from Ponta Delgada harbour. Check pricing and availability here. 

Public Transportation

Public transport is possible, but it takes patience and careful planning. Most routes run from the capital, Ponta Delgada, and stop at towns around the island and not at tourist spots or hiking trailheads. See more information about routes here. 

Buses typically run once an hour, and on some routes only a few times a day. On Sundays and public holidays, services drop significantly, with certain routes running just twice in the day. A single ticket costs €0.50, and a weekly pass is €5.

If you want to reach a hiking spot, you will likely need to take a bus to the nearest town and then grab a taxi for the last stretch. 

Day Trip Tours

If you are not able to rent a car, day trip tours are a great alternative. Several operators run tours out of Ponta Delgada that cover the island’s main highlights. It is a stress free way to see the best of São Miguel without worrying about parking or navigation.

Here are three day trip tours I recommend:

Renting a Car

If you can rent a car, I would genuinely recommend it. The roads are narrow but easy to navigate. Having a car gives you more freedom of places to visit and your schedule. The main downside is parking.

The island is small, meaning parking spaces are limited. It is especially bad in summer. My advice is to arrive early at popular spots to beat the crowds. 

The number one thing about visiting the Azores is to stay flexible. The weather on São Miguel can change fast, and your best bet is to shuffle days around based on conditions. Lagoa do Fogo is the trickiest spot to catch without fog, so save it for whichever day looks clearest. Each day below focuses on a different part of the island, so feel free to rearrange the days depending on the weather.

Make sure to start here early because it gets busy as the morning goes on. On the drive up, take the back route and stop at Miradouro do Pico do Carvão along the way. It has amazing views looking east across the island.

The Boca do Inferno hike itself is short, and you can do it as an out-and-back or a small loop. We also looped and went to the top of Pico da Cruz too, which offers a different angle, but honestly not a better one. If you are short on time, you can skip Pico da Cruz. 

This beautiful old aqueduct is along the route to Boca do Inferno, so it is easy to add to your schedule. Personally, I would suggest visiting Boca do Inferno first and then stopping here afterwards. It is a minor detour but is a wonderful little stop that people rarely visit. 

Just a short drive from Boca do Inferno, this viewpoint gives you a completely different perspective over the caldera. It is a quick stop, but well worth the few minutes.

There is also an abandoned hotel at the viewpoint called Monte Palace, which is very interesting. We spotted a few people exploring inside despite the “do not enter” signs. We decided not to visit inside, but it was interesting to walk around. 

We nearly skipped this one, assuming it would be the same view as the others, but it ended up being my favourite viewpoint of the entire day. The views of the lagoon are amazing and the angle is perfect for photos.

In the city of Sete Cidades is a food truck called, O Nuno – Rei das Bifanas aka “the king of bifanas” and it absolutely lives up to the name. A bifana is a Portuguese sandwich of thin marinated pork on a simple white roll.

You will find versions of it all over the island. We tried several but this one won by a landslide. They also sell burgers which are incredible as well. I recommend arriving before 2 or 3pm, because they do sell out of food most days and you don’t want to miss it!

I genuinely thought every photo of this church had been edited. The tree lined walkway leading to the front door looks almost impossibly picturesque. I am here to report that it really looks like this in real life. Definitely worth the visit to get a few photos here. 

This miradouro is along the way to the next stop in the itinerary, so it is hard to miss. Honestly, after the jaw dropping views of Sete Cidades, I found it a little underwhelming.

That said, I think coming here in August when the hydrangeas are in full bloom would make it a completely different experience.

If you are visiting in spring or summer, make sure to pack your swimsuit. In cooler months, both spots below are still absolutely worth the visit but it might be too cold to swim.

There are two fantastic swimming spots in this area and if you have time I recommend visiting both. Praia dos Mosteiros is a black sand beach with dramatic views. There are proper facilities there with bathrooms, a foot wash station, and a small café. Walk along the beach and you will find large volcanic rocks you can explore and scramble around on.

A little further down the road is Ponta da Ferraria. It is a little less of a beach and more of a natural thermal pool carved right into the ocean. Swimming in warm water as the cold sea waves crash onto you is genuinely surreal. Make sure to bring sturdy shoes to walk across the volcanic rock.

Also, please note that the thermal pool is only accessible at low tide, so check the tide times before heading out. We ended up not being able to visit due to high tide

Depending on where you are staying or heading for dinner, miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado your final stop of the day. It is a lovely way to close out the day. I imagine the sunset here would be incredible.

I recommend starting the day with a beautiful view. Pico do Ferro delivers a beautiful panorama of Furnas lagoon. This would also be a great sunset spot if you want to loop back at the end of the day.

If you want a different perspective, go to Salto do Cavalo which looks out over the entire Furnas valley. Both viewpoints are worth the stop. 

If time allows, I recommend doing the full loop around the lake. It takes about 90 minutes and every section offers something different. You will pass through a bamboo forest, walk alongside a stunning old church, walk along tall redwoods, and get up close to the bubbling geothermal caldeiras.

If you visit the caldeiras in the morning, you can often watch locals digging holes in the ground to cook food using the earth’s natural heat. You can actually order the volcanic cooked food at nearby restaurants.

You can either park near the caldeiras which costs €3 per person or park near the church Nossa Senhora das Vitórias which is free.

If you have time, there are two privately owned botanical parks right off the lake. Both are genuinely stunning. Mata Jardim José do Canto is located near the church and costs €5 per person to enter. Parque da Grená, is on the north side of the lake near the caldeiras and costs €10 per person.

Full transparency, we skipped both parks due to limited time and budget constraints. However, we spoke to people on the lake walk who had visited Parque da Grena, and every single one said it was worth it.

Small as it is, Furnas has a lot going on. The Caldeira das Furnas sits right in the heart of the village, which is like a little garden of hissing, bubbling geothermal activity that honestly feels otherworldly.

As you explore the village you will see things like a beautiful church of Nossa Senhora da Alegria, gorgeous old manor houses, an upside down house, and the old water mill.

For lunch, I recommend eating geothermally cooked food. The most popular is called cozido das Furnas, which is a rich, hearty stew. It’s as extraordinary as it sounds.

The top places to eat this dish are Tony’s and Caldeiras & Vulcões. I recommend booking ahead of time since they only make a small batch each day.

This traditional Portuguese sweet bread originated right here in Furnas, but you will spot it all over the island. We even had it at breakfast at our hotel. However, nothing compares to having it fresh from the bakery.

It is a sweet flat bread similar to an English muffin, but softer, sweeter, and much tastier. I recommend going to Fábrica Bolos Lêvedos Rosa Quental in Furnas. It is a small unassuming bakery that makes the most delicious bolo levedo we found anywhere on the island. Honestly, I’m still dreaming about it!

Furnas is built on a lot of geothermal activity, which means there are several natural hot springs in the area. There are three main thermal bathing spots in Furnas.

Poça da Dona Beija is one of the more popular spots and has four pools with full facilities including showers and lockers all for €12.

Parque Terra Nostra is unique because it is a spectacular botanical garden with several hot spring pools woven through it and costs €17 to enter.

Right next door is Termas das Caldeiras which is a bit quieter and has three pools set in the grounds of an old hotel for just €6.

Visiting Cascata da Ribeira Quente is a bit of an adventure, and absolutely worth it if you are up for a small detour. You can either see the waterfall from the road or take a short hike through the forest to get up close.

When you approach the waterfall you will enter a tunnel, there will be an opening before a second tunnel and this is where you can see the waterfall, so drive slowly! If you are wanting to hike, go through to the second tunnel and park in the car park in the middle of the second tunnel.

The entrance is easy to miss so drive slowly. Once parked, walk back through the tunnel (please be careful!) and then follow the path along the stream. Do not cross the stream. It is about a 15 minute hike to the waterfall and in my opinion it is absolutely worth it. 

One of the best things you can do in Ponta Delgada is join a whale watching tour. Tours typically leave in the morning, though later departures are available too.

You can spot all kinds of marine life year round, but April and May are particularly special because this is prime season for blue whales, the largest animal on the planet. You might also encounter fin whales, sperm whales, and bottlenose dolphins. It is one of those once in a lifetime experiences. 

Right in the heart of Ponta Delgada sits Gruta do Carvão, an almost two kilometre lava tunnel you can actually walk through for just €11. Unlike a traditional cave, lava tunnels have their own fascinating features like lava stalactites, natural gas bubbles, and really cool textured walls.

Tours last around 30 minutes, and booking ahead is recommended since groups are kept small. It is one of those hidden gems that most visitors walk right past.

José do Canto Botanical Gardens feels like stumbling into a jungle in the middle of a city. It is a peaceful garden filled with gorgeous flowers and extraordinary trees. Entry is €5 and absolutely worth it.

Give yourself proper time to explore the old town. Admire the striking black volcanic stone used on almost every building, and make sure you find the Portas da Cidade which are three elegant arches sitting in the heart of the main square.

Climb Sineira Tower for great views over the city, and finish with a relaxed walk along the harbour. I love doing a city tour when exploring a new city. I think its a great way to learn more about the history and local culture. Check out this fun food tour of Ponta Delgada.

It probably won’t surprise you to learn that São Miguel is home to the only pineapple farms in Europe. Pineapple production started here in the mid 19th century and continues to this day.

Head to Plantação de Ananás dos Açores right in the city for a self-guided tour (or booked a guided tour) through the greenhouses, where you can see pineapples at every stage of growth.

Here is a fun fact that genuinely amazed me, it takes a full two years for a pineapple to reach maturity! Finish up at the onsite café, where you can taste the fruits of all that patience. Completely worth the visit.

Built in the 16th century, Forte de São Brás is a working military fortress that originally defended the island from pirates and now doubles as a fascinating museum.

Entry is just €3, and you can walk the perimeter and explore the underground sections, where artefacts from across the centuries are on display. One thing to note, entrance is cash only. 

To be honest, I was not expecting much from this stop. We only included it because it happened to be on our route, and I almost talked us out of going. I am so glad I didn’t because it is absolutely stunning.

We actually ended up spending nearly two hours here. This is a protected nature reserve that is completely free to visit. It has dramatic waterfalls, 16th century watermills, and vibrant wildflowers everywhere you look.

Try to arrive earlier or later in the day to avoid the crowds. Grab a snack at the small café and give yourself plenty of time to wander. If you are feeling adventurous, you can do a canyoning tour here! 

As a tea lover, this was one of the highlights of the trip. There are two tea plantations on São Miguel, Gorreana (the more well known one) and Porto Formoso. We only had time for one, so we chose Gorreana.

The free guided tour walks you through the whole process of harvesting and producing both green and black tea, and ends with free samples. There is a shop on site where you can buy all their teas and tea related goods.

There is also a café that has surprisingly good food and lots of unique flavoured treats to try. We really loved the Azorean blackberry cake and the tea cookies.

Afterwards, head out into the plantation fields via the tunnel under the road. The rows of tea plants are extremely picturesque. You could spend hours taking photos and exploring the fields.

There are also several guided tours that might be worth checking out. 

This short but steep walk leads to a truly beautiful double waterfall, and it is definitely worth the stop. There is a small car park at the top and a second one at the bottom of the hill near the waterfall.

I would not attempt to drive down to the second car park unless you have a car that is able to take the steep incline. It takes about 30 minutes to walk from the main car park down to the waterfall, but it is mostly a paved road.

The walk back to the car park is very steep, but there is a Burger and Gin food truck waiting at the top, which feels like a well earned reward.

And if you are after a bigger adventure, you can book a canyoning tour that involves abseiling and jumping off waterfalls. I did something similar in Australia and it’s an absolute thrill.

Just down the road from Salto do Cabrito is another natural hot spring. Caldeira Velha feels less like a thermal facility and more like swimming in the middle of nature.

There are several thermal pools to explore, with the most famous pool at the back of the park beneath a natural waterfall. Tickets are €10, and they cap entry at 100 people per hour, so booking a time slot in advance is strongly recommended.

You could also slot this stop into your Day 5 plans as it is only about 15 minutes from Lagoa do Fogo.

Depending on where you are coming from, this works either as a morning or sunset viewpoint. There are several gorgeous viewpoints nearby like Miradouro da Ponta do Arnel and Miradouro da Vista dos Barcos which are both worth a stop.

However, Ponta do Sossego was my personal favourite. It really is as beautiful in person as every photo suggests.

There are several hiking trails around Lagoa de Fogo but we chose the PRC2 Circuit Trail, which starts on the south side of Lagoa do Fogo. It is around 12km and takes about four hours. The trail winds through dense forest alongside a water channel before opening up to the most extraordinary views of the lagoon.

If a full hike is not possible, I recommend the shorter Lagoa do Fogo Trail which starts on the northwest side of the lagoon at the main miradouro. This trail is about 1.5km and takes 45 minutes to descend all the way to the edge of the lagoon and then back up. 

There are three main viewpoints overlooking Lagoa do Fogo, and I would recommend visiting all of them. Each gives you a completely different perspective of the lagoon.

Check cloud coverage on SpotAzores before heading out, since on many days the clouds sit too low to see much at all. The three viewpoints are Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo (decent sized car park), Miradouro da Barrosa (roadside spots for a few cars), and Pico da Barrosa (a few parking spots along the road.

Note that Pico da Barrosa requires you to walk up a small hill to get to the viewpoint.

This little chapel has become really popular on Instagram because of the iconic zig zag stairs. Built in the 16th century and remodelled in the 18th, the church sits on a hilltop overlooking the town of Vila Franca do Campo.

Honestly, the views alone are worth the stop. Legend has it that a local shepherd discovered an image of the Virgin Mary here, and the chapel was built to mark the spot.

There is only a small car park at the church, so I recommend visiting either early morning or later in the afternoon to avoid the crowds.  

If you have a bit of time, a boat tour around the Islet of Vila Franca is a great bonus activity. The islet is the visible tip of an underwater volcano, and it is as dramatic as that sounds.

You can take a tour that circles the islet from the water, or opt for one that lets you disembark and swim in the natural pool at the centre of the volcano before heading back to shore.

We did not have time to do this boat trip but I wish we did because it looks incredible.

I may be a little biased since this is where we stayed, but Caloura is genuinely one of my favourite spots on the entire island. The dramatic rocky coastline is beautiful at any time of day but the sunset is something else.

If the weather cooperates, swim in the natural pool in Caloura before grabbing dinner with an ocean view at Bar Caloura. We also loved the restaurant Casa do Abel and ended up eating there twice during our stay. It is located in the village and has amazing barbecue. 

Rain jacket

Even in the height of summer, expect a bit of rain. The weather moves fast, and you really don’t want to be standing at a viewpoint in the rain without one. I recommend a light, packable rain jacket. 

Hiking Shoes

Even if you don’t have any serious hikes planned, I highly recommend hiking shoes. It rains regularly on São Miguel and the trails can get muddy quickly. Plus, you will want grip and support for the volcanic terrain. 

Old or Dark Swimsuit for the Hot Springs 

If you are planning to visit any of the geothermal pools, pack an old swimsuit or one that is a dark color. The iron in the water stains fabric, and it will not wash out. Consider yourself warned.

Airalo

Whenever I travel somewhere that requires an eSIM, Airalo is my go to. I made the mistake of using another provider once and the eSIM never worked. Airalo is straightforward to set up, reliable, and genuinely one of the most affordable options out there for the coverage you get. I can not recommend it highly enough.

11 Interesting Things to Do in Furnas São Miguel You Can’t Miss

The Perfect Sete Cidades Itinerary for First Time Visitors

13 Most Scenic Miradouros Viewpoints in São Miguel