On a recent trip to São Miguel, we visited Furnas and I was completely fascinated. Furnas is unlike anywhere else on the island because it sits inside a volcanic caldera. That means geothermal activity is everywhere. Right in the middle of the village you can find fumaroles, small geysers, hot springs, and bubbling mud pools.

The natural hot springs scattered throughout the area draw visitors from all over the world for their therapeutic properties. Being in Furnas, São Miguel feels like stepping into a completely different world. Whether you have a few hours or a few days, it is absolutely worth the visit.

*There may be affiliate links in this post.  Read my privacy/disclosure policy to learn more.

Furnas is unique because it sits inside a volcanic caldera. A caldera forms when a volcano erupts and empties its magma chamber. The ground above collapses inward and creates a massive basin.

The Furnas caldera is about 14 kilometres wide and 800 metres deep at its lowest point. So when you are standing in the village, you are literally at the bottom of an ancient volcano. The last eruption in Furnas happened in 1630, so no need to worry.

This geology is what makes everything here so extraordinary. Rainwater seeps deep into the earth, gets superheated by magma far below, and forces its way back up as steam, hot springs, and bubbling mud pools. Around the area there are several fumaroles which are vents where hot gas and steam escape from underground. 

Furnas is also popular because of its hot springs which are a deep orange-brown colour from the iron in the water. Other minerals like magnesium, calcium, and sulphur create green and blue tones in the water. These same minerals are what draw visitors to soak in the thermal hot springs.

It is said to help with inflammation, joint pain, and blood circulation. Whether or not you believe the health claims, soaking in a geothermally heated pool surrounded by forest is an experience you will not forget.

Furnas sits about 45 minutes east by car of Ponta Delgada. A rental car gives you the most flexibility, and I would recommend it if you can. 

That said, public buses run two to three times a day depending on the day of the week. The journey takes about 1.5 hours. You can easily plan a day trip around the bus schedule by arriving in the morning and heading back in the evening.

If you are not renting a car, a guided day tour is a great option. The tour is transport to the area, but you get the perk of a local guide who can give context you would not get on your own. Tours typically cover the main highlights and often include the lake, the caldeiras, and lunch. 

Since Furnas sits in a caldera, typically the mist and clouds sit right above the village so the lake and village will be clear but you can’t see anything at the viewpoints above. This happened to us when we visited, and it was genuinely disappointing at the viewpoints but we enjoyed our time in Furnas.

Even if the viewpoints are cloudy, you will still be able to see everything down in the caldera. Most things to do in Furnas do not actually require sunshine and I must say, the moody grey atmosphere made the caldeiras feel even more dramatic. 

My biggest tip is to use SpotAzores. It is a website and app with live camera feeds from locations across the island. We checked it every morning and it completely changed how we planned each day. If you are wanting to have a clear panoramic view of Furnas, check the cameras before visiting.

Most visitors to São Miguel (myself included) only visit Furnas as a day trip. But if you really want to soak up the atmosphere, I would recommend staying at least one night.

The village gets quiet and intimate when day trippers leave. You feel less rushed, you can visit more than one hot spring, and you get to experience everything Furnas has to offer. 

Here are two great options to consider:

Terra Nostra Garden Hotel — staying here comes with free entry to Terra Nostra Park. Hotel guests also get access during special early and late hours, meaning you can enjoy the hot springs with almost no one else around. That alone makes it worth it. See pricing and availability here. 

Octant Furnas Hotel — a gorgeous four star boutique hotel right in the heart of the village. It has its own thermal pools, a wellness centre, a spa, onsite restuarant and beautiful garden views. A seriously special place to stay. See pricing and availability here.

Right in the heart of the village is Caldeira das Furnas. It is a free open air area full of fumaroles, bubbling mud pools, and hot springs.

It is fascinating that you can go into a shop and then cross the street to see geothermal activity. Nothing really prepares you for it. The ground hisses. The steam rises in thick plumes. The smell of sulphur hangs in the air.

It is completely otherworldly and one of the best free things to do on the island. Go in the morning or later in the afternoon when the light is softer and the crowds are smaller.

If you are wanting to explore the area via tour, this e-bike tour is a great option! Learn about the area in depth and even stop at an artisanal cheese shop for a snack! Book bike tour here. 

It is exactly what it sounds like, a house built upside down, wedged between perfectly normal houses on Victor Manuel Rodrigues Avenue. You cannot go inside, but the exterior alone is worth a photo. It is a bit random, but oddly charming. 

Bolo Lêvedo is a traditional Portuguese sweet bread that originated right here in Furnas. You will find it all over São Miguel, but nothing comes close to eating it fresh from a bakery. It is a soft, slightly sweet bread, similar to an English muffin but bigger.

There are several bakeries that make it, but I recommend going to Fábrica Bolos Lêvedos Rosa Quental. It is a small unassuming bakery that makes the most delicious bolo levedo we found anywhere on the island. Honestly, I’m still dreaming about it!

The natural hot springs are one of the biggest draws to Furnas São Miguel, and it is easy to see why. There are three main thermal bathing spots in the area, each with a slightly different vibe.

Soaking in the pools is deeply relaxing, but there is also a therapeutic side to it. The water is rich in minerals like iron, sodium, magnesium, sulphur, and calcium. These are said to rejuvenate the skin, ease inflammation, and stimulate blood circulation.

Here is a quick breakdown of your options:

• Parque Terra Nostra — entrance is €17 per person. A stunning botanical garden surrounds the hot springs and you could easily spend several hours here. 

• Poça da Dona Beija — entrance is €12 per person. It has four pools with full facilities including showers and lockers. A solid mid range choice. 

• Termas das Caldeiras — entrance is just €6 per person. This location has three quieter pools set in the grounds of a beautiful old hotel. Perfect if you want a more low key experience.

Experience the hot springs at night! The thermal pools are lit up with fun colors, which is a truly unique expeirence. Afterwards, you will enjoy Cozido das Furnas for dinner. You can book this experience here. 

In Furnas there is a small historic watermill you can visit. It gives a sense of what everyday life looked like when mills were central to the island’s economy. It is a quick stop, but a surprisingly interesting one. Unlike other mills around the island, this one has antique tools and recreated interiors that make it feel lived in.

Near the lake, there is a second geothermal site. Alongside the usual fumaroles, hot springs, and mud pools, this is where restaurants cook the famous Cozido das Furnas stew.

Workers lower large pots of raw meat and vegetables into holes dug directly into the geothermal ground. Underground temperatures reach around 100°C, slowly cooking everything for a few hours. Then around noon, they return to pull the pots back out.

If you time your visit right, you can watch the whole process. It is really fascinating to witness. 

The dish cooked in those underground pots is called Cozido das Furnas. It is a rich, hearty stew that contains either pork, beef, chicken, or chouriço, and root vegetables.

There are several restaurants where you can order Cozido das Furnas, but you need to make a reservation ahead of time as they only make small batches. Tony’s and Caldeiras & Vulcões are the two most recommended spots.

If you have time, there are two privately owned botanical parks right off the lake. Both are genuinely stunning. Mata Jardim José do Canto is located near the church and costs €5 per person to enter. Parque da Grená, is on the north side of the lake near the caldeiras and costs €10 per person.

Full transparency, we skipped both parks due to time and budget constraints. However, we spoke to people on the lake walk who had visited Parque da Grena, and every single one said it was worth it.

Parque Terra Nostra is also a popular botanical garden to visit that also has hot springs where you can swim. Even if you skip swimming, it is worth exploring. Entrance is €17 per person.

Next to the village of Furnas is a large volcanic lake. There is actually a lovely walking path around the entire lake which is well worth it that many people skip. It takes about 90 minutes and every section offers something different.

You will pass through a bamboo forest, walk alongside a stunning old church, walk along tall redwoods, and get up close to the bubbling geothermal caldeiras.

Mata Jardim José do Canto and Parque da Grená are both located right off the lake walking path, so it is easy to add these botanical gardens to your journey. You can park near the caldeiras for €3 or near the church for free.

You can also explore the lake on kayaks, which would be a really fun experience. Book your tour here. 

There are two viewpoints of Furnas and both are worth the stop. Pico do Ferro looks out over the volcanic lake and on a clear day the panorama is stunning. Salto do Cavalo offers a wider view across the entire Furnas valley. Either spot would make a magical sunrise or sunset location.

Full transparency, both viewpoints were completely clouded over during our visit. We could not see anything! However, the photos I have seen of the viewpoints are absolutely breathtaking.

I recommend using SpotAzores to check the live camera feeds before you drive up. It will save you the disappointment. 

This hidden waterfall is slightly outside Furnas, but only about an 8 minute drive from the village. Visiting Cascata da Ribeira Quente is a bit of an adventure, and absolutely worth it if you are up for a small detour.

You can either see the waterfall from the road or take a short hike through the forest to get up close. When you approach the waterfall you will enter a tunnel, there will be an opening before a second tunnel and this is where you can see the waterfall, so drive slowly! 

If you are wanting to hike, go through to the second tunnel and park in the car park in the middle of the second tunnel. The entrance is easy to miss so drive slowly.

Once parked, walk back through the tunnel (please be careful!) and then follow the path along the stream. Do not cross the stream. It is about a 15 minute hike to the waterfall and in my opinion it is absolutely worth it.

Furnas was one of those places that genuinely surprised me. The geothermal activity, the food cooked underground, the thermal pools, and the lush volcanic landscape all add up to something truly special.

There is nowhere else on the island quite like it. If you are planning a trip to São Miguel, do not make the mistake of skipping Furnas. It is truly a unique and memorable place to visit.

Looking for more travel inspiration? You may also enjoy these posts:

São Miguel Azores Itinerary: 5 Days on Portugal’s Most Stunning Island

The Perfect Sete Cidades Itinerary for First Time Visitors

13 Most Scenic Miradouros Viewpoints in São Miguel

Liked this Post? Pin it for Later!