I absolutely love hiking. I think it’s one of the best ways to experience new places while travelling. Hiking allows you to witness breathtaking views and explore areas that many tourists miss. Wherever I go, I make sure to research local trails in the area that I can add to my travel itinerary. I find the AllTrails app particularly useful. It lets me filter hikes by difficulty, distance, and accessibility, and provides ratings to help identify the most popular trails.

Hiking in Picos de Europa National Park has long been on my bucket list. It’s a hidden gem in Spain and a dream destination for hikers. With so many trails to choose from, it can be challenging to decide which ones to tackle. During our visit, my husband and I hiked several routes, and I’ve narrowed down my top three favourites. These hikes offer a bit of everything and are not to be missed.

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I recommend visiting in late spring (May and June) or early autumn (September and October) for the best experience. July and August, being the peak tourist season, can get very crowded, and temperatures often rise significantly. I visited in mid-October, and the weather was excellent with virtually empty trails, which made for a very enjoyable experience.

It’s important to remember that mountain weather can be highly unpredictable and change rapidly. Even if the forecast looks clear, it’s wise to bring a light rain jacket or poncho just in case. Be prepared for fog or cloud cover, particularly in the mornings. On our first day, dense clouds obscured the mountains almost completely, which was quite disappointing, but we were fortunate to enjoy clearer skies in the following days.

The region is served by three airports relatively close to the national park: Santander Airport (SDR), approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes from Las Arenas; Asturias Airport (OVD), about 1 hour and 45 minutes away; and Bilbao Airport (BIO), roughly 2 hours and 15 minutes from Las Arenas. We chose to fly into Asturias Airport due to the best flight options available to us, but all three airports are well-situated for accessing the park and offer convenient options.

There is no entrance fee for the Picos de Europa National Park.

Parking can be quite limited, especially in Poncebos, one of the park’s most popular spots. During Easter week and from June 1 to October 15, a shuttle bus operates between Las Arenas and Poncebos, costing about 3 euros for a round trip and running nine times a day starting at 8am. Alternatively, a taxi ride costs approximately €8 to €10 each way.

If you’re visiting between June and September, I highly recommend using the shuttle or a taxi, as parking spaces are scarce and the road from Las Arenas to Poncebos may be restricted to personal vehicles. For visits outside these peak times, it’s still a good idea to arrive early to secure a parking spot; during our mid-October visit, we found that parking spaces began to fill up by 9am.

• Dogs are allowed in the park, but they need to be on a lead at all times. There are certain hikes, like La Ruta del Cares, where dogs are not permitted. 

• Wild camping is not allowed except for above 1600 metres. Tents can only be set up 1 hour before sunset and dismantled no later than 1 hour after sunrise. 

• Hunting and fishing are not allowed. Swimming in lakes and rivers is generally prohibited, unless there are specific signs permitting swimming.

• It is recommended not to hike when there is thick fog, especially La Ruta del Cares, because it could be dangerous.

21.4km or 13.3 miles (out and back) | 1,798 metres elevation gain (steep 2km incline if starting in Poncebos) | 6-8 hours to complete entire route | Difficulty Level: Moderate (due to distance)

Note: No dogs allowed. Not recommended in winter or in heavy rain. Not recommended for children under the age of 12 due to the exposed drop-offs along the trail.

Known as the ‘Divine Gorge’, La Ruta de Cares is the most famous trail in the Picos de Europa National Park, and for good reason. It’s an experience you won’t want to miss. This out-and-back trail begins in either Caín or Poncebos, offering hikers the flexibility to complete the hike in one day or stay overnight before returning the following day. We opted to do the entire hike in a single day, starting in Poncebos in the morning and reaching Caín by lunchtime. After enjoying a relaxing lunch and exploring the village, we headed back to Poncebos, arriving just in time for dinner.

The trail follows the Cares River through the stunning Cantabrian Mountains, passing through tunnels, caves, and bridges, all while offering breathtaking mountain views. Created in the 1940s for workers of the Camarena hydroelectric power station, the trail allowed access to water channels built between 1916 and 1921, leading to the Caín dam. Throughout the hike, you can observe these man-made water channels, a testament to the trail’s historical significance. For most of the journey, the path is impressively carved into the side of the mountain, providing a unique and memorable hiking experience.

La Ruta de Cares is not just a trail but a journey through history and nature. The dramatic landscapes and engineering marvels along the route make it a favourite among hikers. Whether you’re an experienced trekker or a casual adventurer, the trail offers something for everyone, combining physical challenge with the serene beauty of the natural surroundings. If you only do one hike while in Picos de Europa National Park, this is the one you should choose.

6.8 km or 4.2 miles (out and back) | 455 metres elevation gain | 1.5-3 hours to complete entire route | Difficulty Level: Moderate (continuous ascent to Bulnes)

This out-and-back trail starts in Poncebos and leads to the picturesque village of Bulnes, nestled in a charming valley. The hike from Poncebos to Bulnes is a scenic route between two tall mountain peaks. As you make your way along the trail, following the path of the Bulnes River, you’ll cross charming bridges and encounter numerous goats along the way. 

The path, although steep in parts, is well-maintained. Upon reaching Bulnes, you’ll find a tranquil village that seems frozen in time, with traditional stone houses and narrow cobblestone streets. The sense of isolation and peace in Bulnes is truly remarkable. Exploring Bulnes offers a glimpse into the rural life of the region, and the views from the village are breathtaking, with towering peaks surrounding you on all sides. 

If you aren’t too tired, I highly recommend hiking to two viewpoints once you reach Bulnes. The first is Mirador del Bulnes, a short 10-minute hike past the village, offering perfect views of the famous peak, Naranjo de Bulnes, stands at 2,519 metres and is renowned for its sheer limestone walls and popularity among climbers. On the way back, you’ll be treated to stunning views of Bulnes itself. The second viewpoint is Bulnes El Castillo, accessible via a scenic trail leading to a guesthouse and restaurant with an outdoor patio. From there, you can enjoy amazing views of the surrounding mountains.

One unique aspect of Bulnes is the funicular that has connected Poncebos to the village since 2001. The entrance to the funicular is located at the small car park by the bus stop. However, please note that this car park is reserved for Bulnes residents only.

Prior to the construction of the funicular in 2001, Bulnes was only accessible via the hiking trail, making the village very remote and inaccessible. The Bulnes Funicular has since provided a convenient alternative, running every 30 minutes from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 8pm during the high season. In the low season, the last funicular departs at 6pm. The journey from Poncebos to Bulnes takes about seven minutes.

As of 2024, ticket prices are as follows: a normal one-way ticket costs €17.61, and a round trip costs €22.16; children’s tickets (ages 4 to 12) are €4.32 one way and €6.71 round trip. Dogs are allowed on the funicular if kept on a lead. During our visit, we decided to take the funicular up to Bulnes, explore the village and its surroundings, and then hike back via the Canal de Texu trail. This combination allowed us to experience both the convenience of the funicular and the beautiful nature of the hiking trail.

13.7 km or 8.5 miles (loop) | 696 metres elevation gain | 5-7 hours to complete entire route | Difficulty Level: hard

This hiking trail is a lopp connecting the picturesque villages of Tielve and Sotres. It’s recommended to start in Tielve and hike clockwise to tackle the most challenging sections in the first half of your journey. About midway through, you’ll reach Sotres, the highest village in the Asturias region, nestled at an altitude of around 1,050 meters. Sotres offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and traditional Asturian architecture, making it a charming spot to rest and take in the scenery.

After exploring Sotres, you’ll continue the loop back to Tielve, where you can enjoy the spectacular vistas and rugged landscapes. This route is less frequented than the other two, making it an excellent choice for avoiding crowds during the peak tourist season.

Picos de Europa National Park has quickly become one of my favorite hiking destinations. It is relatively unknown outside of Spain, which adds to its allure and makes it feel like a hidden gem. Whether you’re traversing the dramatic landscapes of La Ruta del Cares, discovering the charm of the village of Bulnes, or tackling the challenging loop between Tielve and Sotres, each hike offers unique scenery and unforgettable views. Picos de Europa truly has something special for every hiking enthusiast.

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